A Facialist's Notes On Puffiness
- 14 hours ago
- 6 min read
They say there are three ages in a woman’s life where she looks in the mirror and thinks, “I’m sorry… who is that?!?!” Apparently those ages are thirty-nine, forty-four and sixty. As someone who has already passed the first age and can confirm, that is, so far, absolutely true.
Also, the number of women I’ve spoken to about looking in the mirror and suddenly feeling old is probably running into triple, if not quadruple, figures.
The sad thing is that a lot of the time, we haven’t actually aged at all. No, you haven’t aged ten years overnight (I don’t actually think that’s possible), but you might have woken up with a face full of puffiness.
If your face feels heavy, swollen, tired and less defined, then maybe that’s all it is. If it feels like it looks like this all the time though… Houston, we have a problem.
So what is puffiness actually?
Generally, it tends to be fluid retention in the face, alongside inflammation, sluggish lymphatic drainage, possibly some congestion in the tissues or sinuses, and even swelling from irritation. Basically, our face should move and flow, but when things become stagnant, everything starts to look a bit… well, stuck.
So the big question is… is it puffiness or ageing?
We seem to assume that puffiness equals ageing. It might make our face look older, but of course that isn’t necessarily what’s happening. Unfortunately, puffiness can blur our facial contours, make us look heavier and a bit more jowly, soften the jawline and make the face look bigger overall. And don’t even get me started on what it does to the eyes. I mean, exhausted doesn’t even begin to cover it.
There are so many reasons why this happens, so I think a list is the easiest way to tackle it…
HORMONES: Those lovely little devils. This is probably the biggest one for us women.
There is, of course, perimenopause and all the delightful water retention that can come with it. Our oestrogen fluctuates and seems to affect absolutely EVERYTHING, which can lead to more puffiness.
Then there’s the luteal phase (otherwise known as the second half of your cycle where you feel like death). Because apparently being bloated, emotional and exhausted wasn’t enough so hormones choose to kick us when we're down.
Then of course you crave salty, deep-fried carbs and chocolate, you can’t sleep so you’re hammering caffeine, and you’re absolutely not in the mood for the gym or leaving the couch because you feel bloated and sorry for yourself. Which then leads nicely into…
LYMPHATIC STAGNATION: But don’t worry, I’ll come onto that properly in a minute. Yay.
STRESS: Ah yes, contender number two.
Stress raises cortisol, increases inflammation in the body, affects circulation (yes really), and also has a huge impact on digestion. Hello stressy stomach everyone, so naturally, all of this kindly shows in our face too.
SALT / ALCOHOL / FOOD / CAFFEINE: I’m not going to preach about healthy eating here. I’m sure you’re old enough to know what generally helps and what doesn’t.
However, salty and processed foods can absolutely encourage water retention, while alcohol and caffeine can contribute to dehydration. We’ll call these rather large "contributors" to facial puffiness.
Sometimes needs must, but don’t wake up the next morning staring into the mirror convinced you need a facelift. Just think instead “I ate like crap yesterday. I’ll do better today.”
ALLERGIES / SINUS ISSUES: I see this so much in clinic. To the point where I’m starting to wonder whether I’m the allergen.
But genuinely, I think there are so many irritants floating around now that it’s difficult to avoid them completely. Hayfever seems to be at an all-time high, and even people who’ve never suffered before are struggling.
Mix that with pollution, vehicle fumes, cosmetics, household cleaners and whatever else modern life likes to throw at us, and there’s always something nearby that can irritate.
Personally, I choose to let some of this go. I’m not buying a home water filtration system and walking around in a purifying mask. If you can avoid a trigger, great. If you can’t, we have to be realistic.
LYMPHATIC STAGNATION: Ah, my specialist subject.
The lymphatic system helps clear waste and excess fluid from the body. Unlike the circulatory system, it doesn’t have a heart pumping things around, so it relies on movement, breathing, muscle activity and massage.
So if you’re sat at a desk all day, not moving much and feeling stressed? That’s a recipe for a puffy disaster.
INJECTABLES: Ok so slightly controversial.
But fillers can absolutely contribute to puffiness in the face, especially if they’ve migrated. They are hydrophilic, meaning they attract water, and they also act as tissue expanders, which can make the face look wider or heavier over time.
If they’re not done well, the face can start to look puffy and heavy.
Similarly, an over-Botoxed face moves less, which can also contribute to stagnation and puffiness. Combine the two and things can start looking quite weighty.
I know some people are very protective over their injectables. I’m not trying to upset anyone. I’m simply being honest.
Then we have a quick list of things that make puffiness even worse:
poor sleep
alcohol
salty foods
hormones
crying
heat
allergies
stress
inflammation
aggressive skincare
overdoing treatments
Ok, so let’s get to the bit you actually came for… what helps?
FACIAL MASSAGE: I am a HUGE facial massage fanatic. It’s bloomin’ brilliant.
I use it in all of my treatments in one way or another. Moving the muscles and tissues helps release stagnant lymph, boost circulation and can absolutely help contour the face.
No, I’m not Leonardo da Vinci sculpting marble over here, but it does make a visible difference.
GUA SHA & GOLD GLOBE MASSAGER: I adore both.
They’re brilliant for encouraging movement and drainage, especially in the mornings. But like anything, consistency is key. A few minutes every morning is far better than an aggressive twenty-minute attack once a month.
EXERCISE & MOVEMENT: Move. That’s it.
Take the stairs instead of the lift. Hit your step count. Do yoga, walk, dance around the kitchen, whatever you like. Movement matters massively when it comes to puffiness.
HYDRATION: Dehydration can actually worsen puffiness because the body tries to hold onto water.
If you genuinely need electrolytes, fine. But for the love of God, don’t take them because social media decided they were trendy (please see my post on that nonsense here).
Drink water and herbal teas. My Tsui Apothecary peppermint tea is lovely for digestion and circulation and perhaps ease off the fourth or fifth coffee.
SLEEP: Very important.
Without sleep, long term, we literally die. Cheery thought isn't it, but yes, lack of sleep absolutely contributes to puffiness too.
INFLAMMATION: Another big one.
We have to reduce inflammation where we can, because if your body is inflamed internally, it will show. And if your skin itself is inflamed too? Even less helpful.
Here are some of my favourite products I recommend for inflamed, irritated or puffy skin:
NIMUE PRE & POST SERUM: Barrier repair first. Always. Order here
SKINBETTER SCIENCE ALTO ADVANCED: Exceptional antioxidant support. Great for stressed, inflamed, environmentally battered skin. Order here
ANP SKIN ANTIOXIDANT: One of my staples for years. Supports inflammation internally too.
ANP SKIN YOUTH BIOME / SKIN CLEAR BIOME: Happy gut, happy skin.
SKINADE: For hydration, plumping and overall skin health without that doughy, swollen look some collagen products can create.
FLUORITE GUA SHA: Daily facial massage and it looks beautiful.
GOLD GLOBE FACIAL MASSAGER: Another lovely option. Entirely down to personal preference.
Finally, our faces might need drainage, but they do not need you to be aggressively massaging them.
No harsh scrubs or rough massage (the lightest touch is all you need for lymphatic drainage). Don’t hammer actives and don’t assume you need to head straight for injectables. It might simply need some drainage and not added volume.
I know it’s tempting to wake up, look in the mirror and think you’ve suddenly aged overnight. But honestly? You probably haven’t, it’s probably just puffiness.
If your face constantly feels heavy, swollen or puffy, why not book an online consultation with me and we can work out what might be causing it and create a routine that actually helps.
Click here to book in with me.
I hope you found this useful. Bit of a longer one today, I know.
Thank you so much for reading,
Emmaline
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