How To Incorporate Peels Into Your Routine
Ok, so as much as it's pretty much always 'peel season' in my clinic and my house, now that summer is officially over, everyone is back from their holibobs and we are well into the belly of autumn, it really is officially peel season.
If you've never had a peel before or you're not sure where to start, autumn and winter are a great time. The sun isn't crazy hot (especially here in the UK) and we're generally exposed to less intense UV. As much as I choose to do superficial facial peels in the clinic all year round, when it comes to doing your own at home, this is a great time to start as, for most of us, we can be pretty consistent with them for the next six months or so.
Of course, if you're going away for some winter sun, then I wouldn't be opting for a peel pad that week. In clinic, I tend to avoid peel treatments for at least three weeks before significant sun exposure. Also, when you come home, if your skin is sensitive from any kind of sunburn or heat rash, avoid them then too.
And don't forget that SPF is essential all year round. This goes for whether you're using medical-grade products or not. We need SPF every single day.
WHAT ARE CHEMICAL PEELS?
I don't want to give you a full-blown chemistry lesson, but peels are usually formulated with AHAs and/or BHAs to gently and effectively exfoliate dead skin cells and encourage cell renewal to help with skin rejuvenation.
Depending on the peel, they can help with:
Dullness and lack of glow
Uneven texture
Congestion and breakouts
Pigmentation and post-breakout marks
Fine lines and signs of photoageing
Overall skin clarity and smoothness
It's also good to remember that even though they're called peels, with superficial peels, generally very little visible 'peeling' is involved. I think a lot of people still think of Samantha from Sex & The City and expect to be red raw with their face falling off. That level of downtime is more associated with deeper resurfacing treatments rather than the superficial peels I'm talking about here. I only work with superficial peels in my clinic, not medium-depth or deep peels.
WHY DO I LOVE PEELS SO MUCH?
I've been a huge fan of peels for twenty-plus years. They allow us to work with active ingredients but also work quite progressively instead of going into full-on attack mode, which can cause a lot of skin barrier damage. They can give a great result even after one treatment and I often find the skin looks even better the following day.
However, one peel doesn't suit all, so it's good to have a plethora to choose from in clinic. I have quite a wide array of options, around eleven different peels between Nimue, SkinBetter Science and Priori, which I can choose from depending on my client's skin on the day.
If you're going for a professional treatment, I would definitely recommend going somewhere with plenty of peel options instead of only one, as they're not all suitable for everyone (even if the brand says they are!). I have some peels designed for incredibly sensitive skin and others for skins that are much more resilient.
DO AT-HOME PEELS WORK?
Absolutely! My skincare routine involves two peel pads a week and I love the results from them.
On a Sunday night, I'll do my full facial treatment, which includes the SkinBetter AlphaRet Peel Pads, and then on a Wednesday I do my second mini facial, which includes the Nimue Active Rejuvenation Wipes. I've built my skin up to tolerate this and I wouldn't necessarily say everyone needs to do the same, but the results are fab for me.
If you're a beginner, maybe start with a gentler option such as the Nimue Active Rejuvenation Wipes once a week and see how your skin responds. You can then gradually build up the frequency if your skin is tolerating them well.
Then, if you fancy something spicier, the SkinBetter AlphaRet Peel Pads are the absolute dream! The spiciest ones I offer are the Priori Q-SOD Peel Pads. I love these, but my skin will only tolerate them once a week, so if I'm using these it's usually when I want an extra boost for a special occasion.
I would also mention that you don't want to buy peel pads and completely neglect the rest of your routine. Skincare formulation matters and I would highly recommend incorporating medical-grade skincare into the rest of your routine if you want to see the best results. No, you don't have to suddenly change everything at once, but as things start to run out, you can gradually replace them with products that are better suited to your skin and concerns.
WHEN SHOULD YOU NOT USE A PEEL?
Avoid or postpone your peel if:
Your skin is sunburnt or particularly sensitised after being in the sun.
You're heading into significant sun exposure or going on a sunny holiday.
You have cuts, broken skin or an active skin infection.
You have an active flare of eczema, dermatitis or psoriasis in the area.
Your skin is already irritated from overusing retinoids, acids or other actives.
You've recently had another treatment that has temporarily compromised the skin barrier.
You're using prescription retinoids or certain medications, in which case speak to your practitioner before using a peel.
You're pregnant, depending on the ingredients. Certain superficial peels may be suitable during pregnancy, but retinoid-containing peels should be avoided, so always check first.
All in all, peels are great for skin rejuvenation, but more isn't always more. Don't automatically opt for the strongest one because you might find you end up with sensitivity rather than better skin. Start slowly and gradually build up your tolerance for the best results.
As always, consistency is key. If you can use an appropriate at-home peel once a week, you could start to notice the benefits quite quickly. And, of course, always use a good, well-formulated SPF (such as the Nimue Sun-C SPF 40 or 50) every day too.
We always want to protect our skin barrier, so all the peel options I use myself and in treatments are chosen with this in mind. I would, however, be cautious about buying random peels online. Poorly formulated or inappropriately strong acid products can cause significant irritation or even chemical burns, which can then potentially lead to further problems such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
In other words... please don't buy professional peels off Amazon, eBay, Temu etc.
If you're unsure where to start, then why not fill out my free Skin Check-In form here or book an online consultation with me here and we can work together to incorporate some peels into your skincare routine.
Thank you so much for reading,
Emmaline
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