5 Skincare Mistakes You Don't Know You're Making

Don’t worry, I’m not going to tell you that you’re not drinking enough water, sleeping in your makeup or forgetting to wear SPF daily. We all know those ones!

After being a facialist for over twenty-three years now, I’ve started to notice a pattern with some of the things I hear clients doing that they don’t even realise are skincare mistakes. I’ve probably got a list as long as my arm, but for today, we’re going to focus on the top five I hear most often…

1. LAYERING PRODUCTS INCORRECTLY

I’ve done numerous posts on this over the years, but the order in which you apply your products (especially medical-grade skincare) can make a difference to the results you’re getting. For example, if you start with a rich, oil-based product and then follow with a lightweight, water-based serum, you may affect how well that serum can be absorbed and perform. So, it’s worth getting your layering right to make the most of your products.

As a general rule, you want to work from lighter to richer textures, starting with water-based products such as mists, lotions and serums before moving on to creams and oils.

Here’s how I would generally layer some of the products I use in my clinic.

First come mists and water-based lotions, such as Hydrinity Hyacyn Mist, followed by Forlle’d Refining Lotion or Platinum Lotion.

Next, I work with water-based serums such as Forlle’d P-Effect Essence, Alpha or Beta Serums, and Meder serums (including those from your sheet masks). You can also use Forlle’d Reliance Gel at this stage.

I then move on to slightly richer serums such as InterFuse LINES from SkinBetter Science, along with eye products like Calecim Eye Contour Lifting Cream or Nimue Plump & Firm Contour Gel, and products such as Nimue TDS or Pre & Post Serum.

Then come my actives, such as SkinBetter Science AlphaRet, Nimue Retinal Power+ Serum or Nimue Active Lotion, depending on the routine.

After that, I apply creamy moisturisers such as Forlle’d Basing Emulsions, Nimue Day and Night preparations or Calecim Multi-Action Cream.

If you’re using a facial oil, such as Nimue Hyaluronic Oil, this would generally come towards the end of your routine.

Finally, in the morning, apply a generous amount of SPF to your face, neck and décolletage.

Of course, you also need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Some products are specifically designed to be applied first or used in a particular order, so always take that into consideration. And remember, this is an example of layering, not a routine where you need to use every product I’ve mentioned!

THE WATER YOU WASH YOUR FACE IN IS TOO HOT

This is a hugely common mistake. I see clients who are struggling with their skin barrier and can’t understand why. They’re applying all the serums, doing all the right things, but their skin is still red, sensitive and dry.

If you’re regularly washing your face in very hot water or letting a steaming hot shower run over it, you could be making matters worse. Excessively hot water can disrupt the skin’s surface lipids and aggravate dryness, irritation and redness, particularly if your barrier is already compromised.

Try to opt for lukewarm water where possible, and if you’re only splashing your face rather than using a flannel to remove your cleanser, make sure you’re thoroughly rinsing away all traces of the product.

Also, try not to let hot shower water run directly over your face for long periods. I know some people love the sensation, but from a skincare point of view, it’s not the one. Sorry, guys!

YOU’RE APPLYING TOO MUCH PRODUCT

Social media is partly to blame for this, I’d say! You can watch people applying full droppers of product, with serum running all over and down their faces. And don’t even get me started on letting the dropper touch your skin! Please don’t do this. You risk transferring bacteria and other contaminants back into your bottle of perfectly good skincare.

With most serums and active products, you only need enough to apply a thin, even layer, following the manufacturer’s recommended amount. Applying more doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll get better results, and with certain actives, it can increase the risk of irritation.

SPF, however, is completely different. This is one product you really don’t want to scrimp on! You need to apply enough to achieve the protection stated on the packaging. As a practical guide, around a quarter of a teaspoon is often suggested for the face alone, although the amount needed depends on the area you’re covering and the product. Your neck and décolletage will need additional product too.

For your usual creams and serums, a smaller amount is often perfectly adequate, so there’s no need to empty half the bottle onto your face every morning!

YOU’RE CONSTANTLY CHANGING YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE

There’s one thing having different products for different skin conditions, but it’s another to constantly switch up your routine without giving anything enough time to start working.

When we’re treating skin concerns such as hyperpigmentation, acne and signs of ageing, consistency is key. You need to give products time to work, and concerns such as hyperpigmentation can take months to show the results you’re after.

When purchasing skincare, always ask questions so you can have realistic expectations, and try not to get sucked into every new trend. Just because there’s a new ingredient doing the rounds doesn’t mean that a) you need it, b) it’s even suitable for your skin or c) it’s formulated in a way that’s going to make a noticeable difference.

And if something is irritating your skin, don’t feel you need to persevere with it for months in the hope that it’ll eventually work!

YOU’RE TREATING YOUR SKIN TYPE AND NOT THE CONDITION

Skin can be relatively complicated when we’re treating it sometimes. Just because you’ve always had oily skin doesn’t mean it can’t become dehydrated. Equally, just because you’ve got dry skin doesn’t mean you can’t use active ingredients to encourage skin renewal and improve signs of ageing.

It’s important to understand both your skin type and its current condition, which is why having a good consultation before investing in new products can make such a difference. It allows you to choose products that are actually suitable for your skin and gives you a much better chance of getting the results you’re after.

I love fancy skincare ingredients and trying new products, but at the same time, I’m always a bit wary because I know my skin is relatively settled at the moment (I’m acne-prone). I tend to switch up my products when I feel there’s something specific I want to address, rather than changing things for the sake of it.

If you’re unsure where to start or you’re concerned you might be making some skincare mistakes you’re not even aware of, why not book an online consultation with me or fill out my free Skin Check-In form? We can discuss your skin concerns and create a routine that suits your skin and that you can actually stick to.

I hope you’ve found this useful.

Thank you so much for reading,

Emmaline