"But Wait... Does SPF Really Cause Cancer?"
- Emmaline Tsui
- Jun 30
- 4 min read
This is one of those really annoying stories that are doing the rounds on socials. In fact, it's not just doing the rounds now, but it has been for quite some time. I'm sure you can imagine... it really grinds my gears!
Also, as a side note, can we please stop getting our skincare advice from TikTok. TikTok is great for little recipes, random cat videos and some outfit inspo, but when it comes to diet and skincare advice, please can we not!
So does SPF really cause cancer?
No. That’s a conspiracy theory that refuses to die.
Some viral posts claim sunscreen is more harmful than the sun itself. Their argument? That sunscreen blocks vitamin D and contains “toxic chemicals” that somehow cause cancer.
Here’s the truth:
SPF doesn’t cause cancer. In fact, daily sunscreen use reduces your risk of sun damage, DNA mutations, premature ageing, and even skin cancer itself.
Most studies questioning SPF safety are either misinterpreted or involve animal models and unrealistic quantities.
Many sunscreens today are formulated to be safe, photostable, and skin-barrier supportive — especially the ones I recommend in clinic.
Finally my main argument is that the skin is a very intelligent organ (that we don't give enough credit to). It's designed to keep stuff out and not let it in. Do you know how difficult it is to get product ingredients into the skin? Most people in my industry spend most of our days trying to get products to penetrate into the skin - whether it be via microneedling, injecting or some other crazy device. Trust me, it's not that simple! If it were, it would be like sitting in a bathtub of wine and just getting drunk from your skin 'absorbing it'.
Physical vs Chemical Sunscreens And What Is the Difference?
Let’s clear this up too, because as always, the internet loves to confuse us.
Mineral (a.k.a. Physical) Sunscreens: These contain zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. They sit on the skin and physically block UV rays by scattering them (along with absorbing the rays a little too and then converting them). Great for sensitive skin. Start working immediately. Can leave a white cast if not well formulated (mine don’t).
Chemical Sunscreens: Contain filters like avobenzone, octinoxate, and octocrylene. These absorb UV rays, convert them into heat, and release it from the skin. Often feel lighter on the skin and more cosmetically elegant.
Both types protect your skin. The best one is the one you will actually wear every single day.
But it’s cloudy... do I really need SPF?
Yes. UVA rays (the ones responsible for premature ageing) come through clouds and glass. So if you’re working from home near a window, you’re still exposed. Also, don't forget that Vitamin D doesn’t absorb through glass, so no, you’re not getting the benefits without the damage.
Do I need SPF indoors?
Absolutely. UVA rays are very sneaky. They’re present year-round and penetrate deeper into the skin. They don’t cause sunburn like UVB rays so you're not going to get a tan indoors. This is why the damage builds slowly and silently. This can cause collagen breakdown, pigmentation, and fine lines that creep up on you over time. Have you seen the famous truck driver who has one side of his face next to the cab window? It's pretty shocking!
So which SPF should I actually use?
You know I’m picky and for good reason. My top SPF's are tried, tested, and genuinely loved by clients and me as well.
Here is the lowdown (incase you previously missed it) on all my favourite SPF's...
Nimue SPF 40
A lightweight, non-oily SPF that offers broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection while actively working to prevent and repair the visible signs of photoageing. Formulated with a mix of physical and chemical sunscreens, antioxidant complexes, and hydrating actives, it supports DNA protection and is a perfect match for all skin types — even sensitive. The non-whitening texture makes it ideal under makeup, and it works really well with your prescribed Nimue moisturisers. Suitable from age 10+, it’s one of my all time best sellers and for good reason too! Click here to order.
Nimue SPF 50 Environmental Shield
This is Nimue’s ‘smart SPF’ — offering protection not just from UV rays, but also infrared (IR), high-energy visible light (HEV), and environmental aggressors like pollution and smog. It’s a high-factor, matte-finish SPF with a powerful combination of physical and chemical filters plus ingredients that actively stop reactive oxygen species (ROS) from forming. Think of this one as a shield for city workers, people on their laptops all day, and anyone spending long hours in unpredictable environments. Click here to order.
SkinBetter Science SunBetter® Tone Smart SPF 50
A tone-adapting mineral SPF compact that doubles as your primer and a sheer base. With 100% mineral, non-nano actives (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide), this SPF offers broad-spectrum protection with a skin-smoothing, semi-matte finish. It’s water-resistant, suitable for sensitive and post-procedure skin, and blends beautifully with all skin tones. Great for touch-ups throughout the day, especially if you want SPF protection without layering more product or disturbing your makeup.
I use this daily under my eyes as a concealer and it's absolutely perfect for it! Click here to order.
Revision Skincare Intellishade® TruPhysical SPF 50
This multitasking moisturiser delivers five anti-ageing benefits in one: it corrects, protects, conceals, brightens and hydrates. Powered by 100% mineral sunscreens (no hidden chemical filters), it also features over 20 clinically proven actives to target lines, firmness, pigmentation, hydration, and UV damage. Ideal for all skin types including sensitive and post-procedure, this product streamlines your morning routine while giving you serious anti-ageing benefits. The universal tint offers an instant healthy glow that works well even without foundation. Great for holidays or daily use if you like a natural finish.
Remember, if you want to keep your skin healthy, bright and youthful you MUST wear your sun protection daily.
Choose one you love. Use it every single morning. Reapply when outdoors. And watch your skin thank you for it.
Need help choosing the right one for you? Have a free skin check-in or click here to order one of my favourite SPF's.
Thank you so much for reading,
Emmaline
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