Do Eye Creams Actually Work?
I get asked a lot in my clinic, "Do you think I need an eye cream?"
I think some people really swear by them, while others are not so sure, mainly because they have had bad experiences with them. For example, I've had clients in the past say, "I can't use eye creams as they make my eyes puffy." Yes, this is probably true, but not for the reason they think. It's all about the application, and if you're applying lots of your eye cream directly under the eyes and on the lids (unless you're told to), then that can cause puffiness.
Eye creams, though, are actually a very important part of your skincare routine and, believe it or not, they aren't just very expensive face creams in a tiny little pot!
The question is though... do you actually need one?
Personally, I think a good eye cream is absolutely worth using. I use one every single day and have done for years. But, and this is quite a big but, we need to be realistic about what we're expecting it to achieve because no eye cream, regardless of how fancy pants the ingredients are or how much it costs, is going to completely change the shape of your face.
The skin around our eyes is different from the rest of our face. It's much thinner, has fewer sebaceous glands and very little subcutaneous fat, which basically means it can be more prone to dehydration and is one of the first places we tend to notice changes as we age. We also have constant movement from blinking, smiling and laughing, and over time we lose collagen, elastin and volume too.
So yes, a well-formulated eye cream can absolutely help. It can hydrate and strengthen the skin, plump out dehydration lines, improve the appearance of fine lines and, depending on the formulation, help to firm and tighten the area.
But can it get rid of huge eye bags? Let's be honest here... no. Absolutely not.
Can it completely remove very dark circles? Probably not either.
And this is where I think we need to understand what we're actually looking at before spending £100 on an eye cream and then being disappointed that we still look tired.
ARE YOUR DARK CIRCLES ACTUALLY DARK CIRCLES?
This is something I see all the time. There are lots of reasons why the area underneath our eyes can look darker. There can be actual pigmentation, visible blood vessels because the skin is so thin, inflammation, allergies and even puffiness. But sometimes what you're calling a dark circle isn't really pigmentation at all.
It's just a shadow, and this is a lot more common than you would think.
If you naturally have deeper-set eyes or a pronounced tear trough, the structure of your face can create a shadow underneath the eye. Ageing can make this more noticeable as we lose fat and support around the eye area, but some people simply have this facial structure from a younger age.
Stand underneath a horrible overhead light and suddenly you look like you haven't slept since 2007 (the hairdresser's chair is a perfect example). Stand in lovely soft light facing a window and they've practically disappeared.
No eye cream can change the shape of your eye socket, so it's important to work out whether the darkness you're trying to treat is actually coming from the skin in the first place. Sometimes looking in the mirror with some really good lighting will tell you all you need to know.
AND WHAT ABOUT EYE BAGS?
Again, it depends on what is causing them.
If you're a little puffy in the morning or holding fluid around the eyes, gentle lymphatic drainage and massage can make a lovely difference. This is something I use a lot in my facial treatments. Cooling products and keeping the area hydrated can help it look fresher too.
A proper, prominent under-eye bag caused by the anatomy of the lower eyelid is a different story. Lower-eye bags can involve changes in skin elasticity, fat, muscle and the surrounding structures.
An eye cream isn't going to remove a fat pad, and neither is facial massage. If somebody genuinely wants to remove significant structural eye bags, we're moving into the territory of lower blepharoplasty rather than skincare.
I think we need to be honest with ourselves when buying an eye cream. This little pot isn't going to perform a miracle.
So what can we do? Improve the actual skin around the eye as much as possible. And that's where a good eye product comes in...
SO WHICH EYE PRODUCT IS RIGHT FOR YOU?
I stock quite a few because, unsurprisingly, everybody's eyes aren't the same.
If you want an instant plumping and tightening effect: Nimue Plump & Firm Contour Gel
This is the newest addition from Nimue and I LOVE this for somebody bothered by fine lines and dehydration around the eyes. It uses a skin-tightening ingredient derived from peach resin which forms a film over the skin. It also contains ingredients to plump and hydrate the area too.
The result is an immediate tightening and lifting effect alongside plumping, hydration and smoothing of fine lines.
It has a lovely cooling rollerball, so it's gorgeous in the morning. One important thing to know is that you shouldn't layer another eye cream over it because that can disturb the film-forming effect. If you want to use both, Nimue recommends Plump & Firm in the morning and your other eye product at night.
If you want a brilliant all-round anti-ageing eye cream: Nimue Anti-Ageing Eye Cream
This is your more traditional everyday eye cream and a great option if you're starting to notice fine lines and want something that focuses on ageing while keeping that delicate skin hydrated and supported. I tend to recommend this to somebody who doesn't necessarily have one huge eye concern but wants to look after the area properly. It is probably my best-selling eye cream.
If you want something intensive before an event: Forlle'd P-effect Sheet
I love an eye film. These are your little SOS treatment when your eyes look tired, dehydrated and generally like you've had a week. They're brilliant before an event or whenever the eye area needs an extra boost rather than necessarily being your everyday product.
If you want luxury anti-ageing: Forlle'd Platinum Eye Cream
This is one for my skin longevity clients. It's a more luxurious option for somebody concerned with visible ageing around the eyes who wants to concentrate on hydration, firmness and the overall quality of the skin.
If you're more concerned with everyday hydration: Forlle'd Daily and Nightly Cream for Eyes
Think of this as your lovely everyday Forlle'd option. If the skin around your eyes is dry or dehydrated and fine lines look significantly worse because of it, this is a great place to start.
If you love an eye mask: Nimue Collagen Eye Films
Another lovely treatment product rather than necessarily your everyday eye cream. I like these when the eye area needs an intensive hydration boost, particularly before an event or alongside your usual routine. These can be used throughout the week to help keep the eye area plump.
If lifting and firming are your biggest concerns: Calecim Eye Contour Lifting Cream
This is probably my personal favourite at the moment and the one I use myself.
Calecim is where I would look if you're starting to notice that the skin itself doesn't feel as firm as it once did and you want something more advanced for skin rejuvenation, rather than expecting an eye cream to magically remove the anatomy underneath it.
It's also the only eye cream I stock that can actually be applied to the eyelids, which I love because it treats the full eye area without causing puffiness.
If you love AlphaRet: SkinBetter Science EyeMax AlphaRet Overnight Cream
Another one I personally love. This is your nighttime option if fine lines, wrinkles and texture are the main concern and you want the benefits of SkinBetter's AlphaRet technology specifically formulated for the delicate eye area.
SkinBetter also has InterFuse Treatment Cream EYE, which is the one I'd look at if your priority is more about hydration and that lovely plumped appearance. It makes a great daytime partner if you're using EyeMax at night.
If hydration is your absolute priority: Hydrinity Eye Renew Complex
Hydrinity is obviously known for hydration, so this is a lovely choice for somebody whose eye area looks crepey, dry or tired and needs that moisture boost. Hydrating the area properly can make more difference than people realise because dehydration exaggerates the appearance of fine lines.
HOW SHOULD YOU ACTUALLY APPLY EYE CREAM?
You don't need half the pot! A grain of rice between your two ring fingers is plenty.
I generally apply eye cream gently around the orbital area without pulling or dragging the skin. Most eye creams aren't designed to be put directly onto your eyelids either, so always follow the instructions for the particular product you're using. As I mentioned above, Calecim Eye Contour Lifting Cream is the exception amongst the products I stock because that one can be used on the eyelids.
And don't forget your SPF around the eye area during the day. We spend all this money trying to support collagen and improve fine lines and then forget about protecting the area from one of the biggest external causes of skin ageing.
SO, ARE EYE CREAMS A WASTE OF MONEY?
I don't think they are at all. I think sometimes our unrealistic expectations are the problem.
If you have dehydrated, crepey skin with fine lines around your eyes, a brilliant eye product can make a really noticeable difference. If you want to support the skin as you age, improve hydration, plump fine lines and help with firmness, there are some fantastic formulations available.
Prevention is far better than cure in this case. Since turning forty, I've been using eye films three to four times per week to help keep the area plump.
If you have a deep tear trough casting a shadow across your face or significant protruding fat pads underneath your eyes, no amount of eye cream is going to change your anatomy.
Sometimes you need skincare or a gentle facial massage.
Sometimes you need better lighting!
And sometimes, if something really bothers you, the only treatment capable of actually changing it is surgery, as drastic as that sounds. You do you at the end of the day.
If you are still completely baffled, click here and fill out my Skin Check-In form or book an online consultation with me here and we can find the best eye cream to suit you.
Thank you so much for reading,
Emmaline
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