"Do I Need Retinol Yet?"
- 18 hours ago
- 4 min read
...or insert any other trending ingredient right now pretty much!
This is one of the most common questions I get asked in the clinic, along with...
"Do I need Botox?"
"What are polynucleotides/exosomes/peptides?" etc.
"Should I use Vitamin C?"
Or one of my personal favourites...
"I've started using this serum. I don't really know what it's meant to do, but I bought it as someone was talking about it on TikTok/Instagram".
Don't worry, I understand it's incredibly overwhelming. The number of clients I see in my clinic, or messages I receive on Instagram from people using products they know absolutely nothing about, other than somebody on TikTok or Instagram told them to buy them, is honestly wild to me.
Although saying that I completely understand why. Social media is incredibly good at making us feel like we're missing out. I fall for it myself all the time.
Anyway... back to retinol.
I've written a few posts over the years all about retinol (which you can read here and here), but today I wanted to answer a slightly different question.
Do you actually need it?
Well it depends what you're trying to achieve to be honest.
Topical Vitamin A, whether that's retinol, retinal or another retinoid, is excellent for improving skin texture and increasing cell turnover. It can also help support collagen production, improve skin longevity, soften fine lines over time, fade pigmentation and help treat acne.
And retinoids are brilliant ingredients when they're treating the right skin concern. So if you're using one because your skin genuinely needs it, fantastic.
If you're using one because somebody with beautiful (filtered) skin on TikTok told you to, then maybe we need to re assess if it's really for you.
Personally, I'd say you probably don't need a retinoid if...
you're in your early twenties (or younger... seriously, what is it with ten year olds buying retinol these days? Don't believe me? I did a whole post on that too here)
your skin barrier is impaired, because that needs repairing before introducing active ingredients
your skin is already inflamed or irritated
somebody online told you to buy it without ever seeing your skin
you don't wear SPF every single day (which you should be doing regardless!)
you're pregnant or breastfeeding, unless you've been advised otherwise by a medical professional.
We have to remember that more isn't always better. Layering active ingredients on top of one another doesn't automatically give you healthier skin. Understanding your skin is far more important than simply following the latest trend.
Having said that, there are plenty of situations where a retinoid can be a brilliant addition to your routine. For example...
acne
pigmentation and sun damage
fine lines
rough skin texture or enlarged pores
loss of collagen and firmness
slower skin cell turnover, where the skin starts to look dull or lacklustre.
Like I always say, it's about understanding your skin and what your skin needs. Don't assume that because you've turned thirty you suddenly need to start using retinol... or Botox for that matter. It's not about your age but actually what your skin needs.
If you're completely unsure, then that's exactly what I'm here for. You can either book an online consultation with me here or fill out my free Skin Check-In form and I'll happily point you in the right direction.
One thing I would say though is that retinoids aren't anywhere near the top of my priority list if you're sleeping four hours a night, your stress levels are through the roof, your diet is all over the place or you're not wearing SPF every day.
Now, onto some of my favourite retinoid products...
Please note, I'm personally not a fan of tretinoin for a number of reasons, but the main one is that it can often cause a significant retinoid reaction. If your skin is constantly red, flaky and irritated, you're much less likely to stay consistent with it (and also more prone to PIH - post inflammatory hyperpigmentation).
That's why I prefer recommending these products that are highly effective but formulated in such a way that they can be used regularly without the irritation.
These are two of my favourite retinoid products. They use the patented AlphaRet molecule, which allows a slow release of the retinoid to help minimise the typical redness and peeling people often associate with Vitamin A.
The Overnight Cream is suitable for most skin types, while the Clearing Serum also contains lactic acid and salicylic acid, making it a great option for acne-prone skin.
Another fantastic retinal serum that helps improve fine lines, pigmentation and overall skin clarity while leaving the skin beautifully radiant.
Because it contains retinal rather than retinol, it only requires one conversion within the skin before becoming active, meaning it can begin working more efficiently.
When it comes to buying a retinoid, please do your research first and always speak to either myself or another qualified skincare professional before purchasing one.
Don't automatically buy the cheapest, because it may contain very little active ingredient or be poorly formulated. Equally, don't assume the strongest one is the best. It probably isn't and doesn't really work like that.
And of course, if you're using a topical vitamin A (or not), don't forget you must be wearing an SPF daily as well. Yes we want to prevent fine lines, pigmentation and collagen breakdown, but most importantly we want to avoid skin cancers! My favourite is always the Nimue Sun-C SPF 40 or 50 for best results.
The best retinoid is the one that's formulated well and is suitable for your skin.
So before you buy, ask yourself one simple question...
Do you actually need a retinoid... or have you simply been influenced? Because we don't need to buy every single product because people on socials are telling us to! (note to self as well there Emmaline!)
Thank you so much for reading,
Emmaline