The Real Reason You’re Not Seeing Results From Your Skincare Products
- Emmaline Tsui
- 4 days ago
- 5 min read
I have so many wonderful ranges in my clinic. As much as they are really great at showing results, we have to remember, like anything, if you're not using them correctly, you're not going to see the best results from them. If you’re feeling let down by your skincare routine, it might not be the products—it might be how you’re using them.
I speak to people all the time who tell me, “Vitamin C didn’t do anything for me,” or “Glycolic acid wrecked my face,” or my personal favourite: “I tried a retinoid once and now I’m terrified of them.”
But in nearly every one of these cases, it’s not the ingredient that’s the issue—it’s the formulation, the application, or the expectations.
So, let’s talk about the most common reasons your skincare might be underperforming (and how to fix it without binning your entire bathroom shelf).
1. You’re Applying Products in the Wrong Order
Oils before serums? SPF as your first step? I love a bit of skincare rebellion, but some things really do need to be done in the right order.
Here’s a simple rule: thinnest to thickest. That means cleansing, then any toners or lotions, then serums, then moisturiser, then a few drops of oil if you're using it, then SPF (and no, SPF is never optional).
Start layering your occlusive oils or heavy creams too soon and you’re basically building a skincare forcefield that nothing can penetrate—not even the good stuff. Remember in school when you learnt that water can't penetrate oil... same thing here!
2. Your Cleanser is Working Against You
Makeup wipes, micellar water alone, and harsh exfoliating scrubs might be leaving your skin “clean,” but at what cost? A compromised barrier, disrupted microbiome and irritated skin do not set the tone for healthy results.
So start with a proper cleanse:
Cleansing Beauty Balm to remove makeup and SPF without stripping.
Nimue Cleansing Gel for your second cleanse—gentle exfoliation thanks to its triple AHA formula that increases cell turnover without harshness. (click here to purchase)
Then in the morning, choose one cleanser to use to remove any product, dust and sweat from the night before.
3. You’re Using Ingredients in Isolation
I see this all the time: people picking up a bottle of “salicylic acid” thinking it’ll cure their breakouts, without realising that concentration and formulation matter.
It's great the release of some of these new brands that seem to sell individual ingredients. I do think it's really helped people understand ingredients better, however, nothing works that great by itself.
Active ingredients don’t work in isolation—they need to be part of a properly formulated product that considers delivery system, pH, skin compatibility and supporting ingredients.
Otherwise, all you’re doing is slapping acid on your face and wondering why it’s red and angry. Not ideal.
4. You Think Your Skin is “Sensitive” to Actives
Let’s talk about glycolic acid. People love to tell me they’re “too sensitive” for it. But more often than not, they’ve just used a poorly formulated version without a proper delivery system.
If a product dumps the full strength of an acid straight onto the skin without any time-release mechanism or buffering agents, of course you’re going to react. That’s not a skin type—it’s poor formulation.
This is why I always advocate for medical-grade skincare. You’re not just paying for the ingredient—you’re paying for how it’s delivered, stabilised, and supported to actually do something meaningful.
5. You’re Using What Your Favourite Influencer Uses
Here’s the truth: just because someone has lovely skin and a blue tick, doesn’t mean what they’re using is right for you.
You have different skin, a different lifestyle, and different goals. What works for them might cause chaos for you.
This is why I always recommend a quick skin check-in (completely free, by the way). Let me help you figure out what your skin actually needs—rather than what’s trending.
6. You’re Using Retinoids… In The Daytime
No, no, no.
Retinoids break down in sunlight and increase your skin’s sensitivity to UV. Using them in the daytime not only makes them less effective—it can leave your skin vulnerable to damage.
Stick to nighttime use, and make sure you’re using a good quality retinoid.
I recommend:
SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream – a genius blend of retinoid and lactic acid, with a slow-release system that’s powerful but gentle. No flaking, no peeling—just results. And yes, please, wear sunscreen every day. (click here to purchase)
7. You’re Not Wearing SPF (So Everything Else is Pointless)
If you’re not wearing SPF daily, I hate to say it—but all your other skincare efforts are like washing your car in a thunderstorm.
I recommend:
Nimue SUN-C SPF 40 – a lightweight, non-oily formula with broad spectrum protection, antioxidant support and DNA-repairing ingredients. It’s packed with advanced filters like Titanium Dioxide, PBMSA and BMT, and it won’t leave you looking like a ghost. (click here to purchase)
Use it every morning, even in the UK, even if it’s cloudy. Reapply every 2–3 hours if you’re out and about.
8. Your Hyaluronic Acid Isn’t Doing Much
Not all hyaluronic acid is created equal.
Molecular weight matters. High molecular weight HA sits on the surface and hydrates the top layers. Low molecular weight HA penetrates deeper, helping with long-term hydration and plumpness.
The gold standard?
Forlle’d Refining Lotion – this is hydration that actually goes deep. It improves elasticity, boosts moisture in the dermal layers, and soothes redness and inflammation. Think of it as your skin’s daily hydration insurance.
Follow it with Forlle’d Basing Emulsion – a lightweight, lipid-rich emulsion that protects the hydrolipid barrier, accelerates recovery, and leaves your skin soft and supported. It also works beautifully under makeup.
9. You’re Expecting Instant Results
Skincare is science.
Products like Calecim Multi-Action Cream and Skinade Collagen Supplement need around 90 days of consistent use to show full results. They’re changing how your skin behaves, not just how it looks after a single application.
Give your products a proper trial run. Your skin cells need time to turn over, build collagen, and show visible change.
Still Unsure What You Should Be Using?
That’s exactly why I offer my free skin check-in. No awkward calls, no pressure—just a form you fill out so I can get a sense of your skin, your goals, and what might actually work for you.
I’ll send back tailored advice and product suggestions that actually make sense—and that work.
And if you want to go further, you can always book an online consultation for a deeper dive into your routine.
Thank you so much for reading,
Emmaline
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